Honest Post From My Life • Family Travel • Expat Parenting Hong Kong

There Is More to Holidays Than Pad Thai Around a Pool. Mongolia certainly proved that to be true

July 31, 2026
A family therapist, a very good sport of a husband, two children, eight nights in a ger, and no plumbing. What Mongolia taught our family about discomfort, connection, and showing up.
Wellbeing

HK Expat Family Adventure Travel Mongolia

Reflections on our recent family holiday, off the beaten path to Mongolia

Our camera worked hard this holiday, but safe to say, our journals worked just as hard, both outside the immediate moments and most certainly since returning. It really is one trip where all of us have had something to write to our future selves about.

There Is More to Holidays Than Pad Thai Around a Pool. We Went to Mongolia to Prove It.

HK Expat Family Adventure Travel Mongolia

I have been attempting to write this post for the last couple of weeks since we got back to Hong Kong, but it has taken me longer than I expected. The trip was more than an experience. It has begged a lot of reflection, individually and collectively as a family. Over the last couple of weeks, we have been talking, reminiscing, laughing about things that were not so funny at the time, and through the process, slowly making sense of what we had all been through.

I write with the benefit of hindsight. I say upfront, that the trip evoked so many mixed emotions: the wonder and the discomfort and the gratitude and the frequent desperate longing for a functioning shower, the sheer spectacle of nature, while trying not to think about the intrepid journey to get there. It took several weeks to settle into feeling, processing and naming those experiences.

Which is, when I think about it, exactly the point.

Mixed emotions, the evidence that we took the time to really work through the significance and complexity of those experiences. The whole goal of emotion coaching and emotion regulation. The journey of reflective processing to be able to hold the complicated, less desirable ones alongside the positive ones. Mongolia gave our whole family a masterclass in that.

Let me start with a throw-away comment I made, the month leading up to our trip.

Somewhere in the planning process, in a conversation with my husband about where to go this summer, I said, with some confidence,  "there is more to holidays than pad-thai around a pool". I wanted time in nature. Authentic experiences. The way people actually live, not the ease of hanging by a pool at a resort. I have had some of the most beautiful experiences of my life in trying to live like the locals do. With places like the Alps and Whistler out of bounds due to prevailing unrest in the Middle-East, I looked to our region, something in Asia that scratched the same itch.

I looked at the options. I found Mongolia.

Nothing could have prepared us. Nothing. Could have prepared us.

Mixed emotions are the evidence that we took the time to really work through the significance of those experiences. They are the whole goal of emotion coaching and emotion regulation.

Nothing Could Have Prepared Us. Nothing.

HK Expat Family Adventure Travel Mongolia Off Road driving and walks

The travel blogs mentioned the off-road driving from Ulgii to the Altai region. Blogs typically mentioned these off-road trails the way you might describe steep sections of a hike. What these reviews failed to convey was the reality of driving up and down actual hills and valleys. There are directions and there are intentions, and there are drivers of extraordinary skill who navigate between boulders and up gravel hills and through river crossings with a calm that I found both reassuring and slightly alarming. Four to five hours each way. I am convinced this journey qualifies as an extreme sport and should be marketed as such.

After our first shorter trip, we made one decision that I will not stop recommending to anyone who will listen. We upgraded the vehicle. The initial offer was a rustic van. Photographed against the beautiful backdrop it made for a brilliant Instagram shot. As a mode of transport for two children on gravel hills? Less so. We requested a four wheel drive for every road trip after that and I say this with complete sincerity: do not let anyone talk you into the van.

After four hours of no-road driving that I will never fully recover from, we came around a bend and there were the snow-capped Altai ranges. The rustic countryside. Streams from the melting glaciers. The cattle on the hillside. It was breath-taking and awe-inspiring.

This also made me ponder motherhood, especially in the early days. We put so much effort into capturing our new born babies in the most gorgeous outfits, the perfect lighting, complementing accessories. Yet, the photo does not capture the crying colicky baby who was impossible to settle, the sleepless nights, the physical fatigue, the emotion overwhelm, the fear, the self-doubt, the guilt. A picture speaks a thousand words. But so much remains unsaid. And unrecorded.

After four hours of no-road driving that I will never fully recover from, we came around a bend and there were the snow-capped Altai ranges. It looked like paradise.

The Gers. Which the Photos Made Look Considerably More Comfortable Than They Are.

The pictures I saw and the price I was quoted led me to believe that we would be reliving our Sabi Sands experience, only in Mongolia. Our honeymoon. Glamping in its finest form.

The colourful and intricate photos of the ger camps in Mongolia are genuinely beautiful. They are also technically and intricately accurate. What they do not convey is that a ger camp is still a camp. It is a very nice camp with incredibly hospitable host families and a team of guides, cooks, and drivers who went above and beyond in every possible way to make us comfortable.

But we were faced with the reality that there is no plumbing and we had to make do with porta-showers. And after the initial shock of this discovery, which I will not describe in detail out of respect for everyone involved, we adjusted.

I say adjusted. What I mean is that by day three I had accepted my circumstances with a grace I did not know I possessed, and by day eight I had developed a deep and genuine appreciation for the concept of a shower with water pressure.

The joy of the warm powerful shower in Ulan Bator at the end of the trip is something I will not be taking for granted for the foreseeable future. Or possibly ever again.

The irony of it all is that I am genuinely not a happy camper. I love comfort. I chose this trip despite that, not because of it. And the fact that we stayed eight nights across multiple ger locations was, at various points, more than I had bargained for.

Would I do it again? Yes. Would I limit ger stays to five nights maximum? Also yes.

By day three I had accepted my circumstances with a grace I did not know I possessed. By day eight I had developed a deep and genuine appreciation for the concept of a shower with water pressure.

The Meltdowns. Mine (Internally) and Theirs (Outwardly).

Date walks on Family Holiday to Mongolia

The discomfort was real for all of us. We were pushed well beyond our comfort zone, beyond the bubble as my mother-in-law aptly calls our life in Hong Kong. The children were struggling. They were loud and clear. I was struggling. Quietly. The budget and the photos had built an expectation that the reality was somewhat slower to match.

There were meltdowns. There were moments where I genuinely had nothing left to offer except presence and the very sincere hope that grace would arrive before I did or said something I would spend the rest of the trip repairing.

And here is the thing I kept coming back to, as a therapist and as a mother trying to hold it together in the middle of the Mongolian wilderness.

It is my personal approach that creates the climate. Haim Ginot

I could not take away their discomfort. Nor could I change the journey. And yes, in case you are wondering, I tried to get us back to Ulan Bator earlier without any success.

But I could hold them. I could validate what they were feeling. I could affirm that we were going to support them through it, even when I was not entirely sure how.

They needed my calm, steady, sturdy presence. On the days I managed it, things shifted. On the days I did not, we repaired.

Solo time most mornings before the family woke up was the thing that saved me. I walked most mornings and would sit with my coffee and my prayers and the most extraordinary natural silence I have ever experienced, and I would ask for the grace to show up in the way they needed me to.

Grounding myself during the transitions, breathing through the moments when everything felt like too much, choosing to anchor in what was true through Scripture affirmations, rather than ruminate on what was difficult. My professional training in these tools may have helped. But what allowed it to become my default in the moment was the practice, grounding, and anchoring outside the moment. And they worked, more times than they did not.
I wish I had a more prophetic story, but it was the quiet whispers, the peace in the midst of the meltdown, the grace to listen, the ability to hold my child in the middle of an angry outburst. A feeling of being held. So I could hold mine.

Core Memories, a Very Good DJ, Riff-Off's and Dance-Offs, and yes, I still believe the Pad Thai That Can Wait

Complete presence, because we literally could not use any other device. Warm and snuggled. Laughing at the same things. That is a core memory I will hold on to.

I cannot give enough credit to this man. He gets very little time off. This time of year is busy for him. We confirmed that Starlink was available for certain work calls, which it was, and after that he was, without qualification, the best sport I have ever seen.

The humour. The resilience. The ganging up against Mum the Planner when things were hard, which I found far more endearing in hindsight than in the moment. The playlist that spanned five decades and every conceivable genre, with a heavy rotation of Michael Jackson and Taylor Swift that I both loved and have since slightly overdosed on. The date walks. The general steadiness of him. He sustained us.

We were in the wilderness. This was simultaneously my dream and their worst nightmare, and I want to be clear that I appreciated the irony of this without crowing about it excessively.

We downloaded movies onto my phone when we had a burst of Wi-Fi. Pitch Perfect and Grown Ups on Netflix, which turned out to be inspired choices. Watching them on my phone, all of us huddled together in the warm ger with the fire going, genuinely snuggled because there was nowhere else to be and nothing else to look at, is one of the clearest and most complete memories I have from the whole trip.

Complete presence, because we quite literally could not use any other device. Warm and snuggled. Laughing at the same things. That is a core memory that I will hold on to. The movies inspired riff-offs and dance performances from the children. The Michael Jackson riff-offs with dance moves to match is forever etched in my mind and heart.

We carried the kids' Nintendo Switches. The same rules that apply at home applied there. Time-bound, after analogue activities, which Mongolia provided in abundance. Hiking, horse riding, attempts at fishing, all of which I would describe as character-building, reading, sitting in a landscape so beautiful there was no bad view anywhere we looked.

Mongolia. A holiday we will not forget. Stories for years. And genuinely, truly, honestly, a trip I would recommend to anyone with the right expectations, a good vehicle, and a partner who knows how to DJ.

For more ideas on connection this summer, take a look at our Guide to Connection.

The pad thai can wait.

With so much love, a working shower, and a heart full of gratitude,
Lisel

lisel@ourflourishingfamilies.com  •  www.ourflourishingfamilies.com/services

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